Embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other
materials with needle and thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate
other materials such as metal strips, pearls, beads, quills, and sequins.
A characteristic of embroidery is that the basic techniques or stitches of
the earliest work—chain stitch, buttonhole or blanket stitch, running
stitch, satin stitch, cross stitch—remain the fundamental techniques of hand
embroidery today.
Machine embroidery, arising in the early stages of the Industrial
Revolution, mimics hand embroidery, especially in the use of chain stitches,
but the "satin stitch" and hemming stitches of machine work rely on the use
of multiple threads and resemble hand work in their appearance, not their
construction.
Detail of an embroidered silk gauze ritual garment. Rows of even, round
chain stitches are used both for outline and to fill in color. From a 4th
century BC, Zhou era tomb at Mashan, Hubei province, China. The origins of
embroidery are lost in time, but examples survive from ancient Egypt, Iron
Age Northern Europe and Zhou Dynasty China. Examples of surviving Chinese
chain stitch embroidery worked in silk thread have been dated to the Warring
States period (5th-3rd century BC).
The process used to tailor, patch, mend and reinforce cloth fostered the
development of sewing techniques, and the decorative possibilities of sewing
led to the art of embroidery.[2] In a garment from Migration period Sweden,
roughly 300–700 CE, the edges of bands of trimming are reinforced with
running stitch, back stitch, stem stitch, tailor's buttonhole stitch, and
whipstitching, but it is uncertain whether this work simply reinforces the
seams or should be interpreted as decorative embroidery.
The remarkable stability of basic embroidery stitches has been noted:
It is a striking fact that in the development of embroidery ... there are no
changes of materials or techniques which can be felt or interpreted as
advances from a primitive to a later, more refined stage. On the other hand,
we often find in early works a technical accomplishment and high standard of
craftsmanship rarely attained in later times.
English cope, late 15th or early 16th century. Silk velvet embroidered with
silk and gold threads, closely laid and couched. An example of fine English
embroidery. Art Institute of Chicago textile collection. Elaborately
embroidered clothing, religious objects, and household items have been a
mark of wealth and status in many cultures including ancient Persia, India,
China, Japan, Byzantium, and medieval and Baroque Europe. Traditional folk
techniques are passed from generation to generation in cultures as diverse
as northern Vietnam, Mexico, and eastern Europe. Professional workshops and
guilds arose in medieval England. The output of these workshops, called Opus
Anglicanum or "English work," was famous throughout Europe. The manufacture
of machine-made embroideries in St. Gallen in eastern Switzerland flourished
in the latter half of the 19th century.
Japanese free embroidery in silk and metal threads, contemporary. Embroidery
can be classified according to whether the design is stitched on top of or
through the foundation fabric, and by the relationship of stitch placement
to the fabric.
In free embroidery, designs are applied without regard to the weave of the
underlying fabric. Examples include crewel and traditional Chinese and
Japanese embroidery.
Cross-stitch counted-thread embroidery. Tea-cloth, Hungary, mid-20th century
Counted-thread embroidery patterns are created by making stitches over a
predetermined number of threads in the foundation fabric. Counted-thread
embroidery is more easily worked on an even-weave foundation fabric such as
embroidery canvas, aida cloth, or specially woven cotton and linen fabrics
although non-even weave linen is used as well. Examples include needlepoint
and some forms of blackwork embroidery.
Hardanger, a whitework technique. Contemporary. In canvas work threads are
stitched through a fabric mesh to create a dense pattern that completely
covers the foundation fabric. Traditional canvas work such as bargello is a
counted-thread technique. Since the 19th century, printed and hand painted
canvases where the painted or printed image serves as color-guide have
eliminated the need for counting threads. These are particularly suited to
pictorial rather than geometric designs deriving from the Berlin wool work
craze of the early 19th century.
In drawn thread work and cutwork, the foundation fabric is deformed or cut
away to create holes that are then embellished with embroidery, often with
thread in the same color as the foundation fabric. These techniques are the
progenitors of needlelace. When created in white thread on white linen or
cotton, this work is collectively referred to as whitework.
Phulkari from the Punjab region of India. Phulkari embroidery, popular since
at least the 15th century, is traditionally done on hand-spun cotton cloth
with simple darning stitches using silk floss.
Laid threads, a surface technique in wool on linen. The Bayeux Tapestry,
11th century. The fabrics and yarns used in traditional embroidery vary from
place to place. Wool, linen, and silk have been in use for thousands of
years for both fabric and yarn. Today, embroidery thread is manufactured in
cotton, rayon, and novelty yarns as well as in traditional wool, linen, and
silk. Ribbon embroidery uses narrow ribbon in silk or silk/organza blend
ribbon, most commonly to create floral motifs.
Surface embroidery techniques such as chain stitch and couching or laid-work
are the most economical of expensive yarns; couching is generally used for
goldwork. Canvas work techniques, in which large amounts of yarn are buried
on the back of the work, use more materials but provide a sturdier and more
substantial finished textile.
In both canvas work and surface embroidery an embroidery hoop or frame can
be used to stretch the material and ensure even stitching tension that
prevents pattern distortion. Modern canvas work tends to follow very
symmetrical counted stitching patterns with designs developing from
repetition of one or only a few similar stitches in a variety of thread
hues. Many forms of surface embroidery, by contrast, are distinguished by a
wide range of different stitching patterns used in a single piece of work.
Commercial machine embroidery in chain stitch on a voile curtain, China,
early 21st century. Much contemporary embroidery is stitched with a
computerized embroidery machine using patterns "digitized" with embroidery
software. In machine embroidery, different types of "fills" add texture and
design to the finished work. Machine embroidery is used to add logos and
monograms to business shirts or jackets, gifts, and team apparel as well as
to decorate household linens, draperies, and decorator fabrics that mimic
the elaborate hand embroidery of the past.